Thai etiquette and culture: what to know before you arrive

Temples

Cover shoulders and knees — this applies to men too. Remove shoes before entering a hall. Never point your feet at a Buddha image, never climb on one, and never turn your back to one for a photograph. Women should not hand anything directly to a monk; place it down or pass it via a man.

The wai

The palms-together greeting is offered by the younger or junior person first. As a visitor you are never obliged to initiate one, and you never wai a child or a service worker who wais you — a smile and a nod is correct.

Things that carry legal weight

Criticism of the monarchy is a criminal offence in Thailand and is enforced. Do not step on Thai currency or images of the royal family. Vaping is illegal to import, sell or possess. Cannabis is loosely regulated for personal purchase in Thailand but taking any of it out of the country, including back to India, is a serious drug offence.

Everyday conduct

• Keep your voice down. Losing your temper in public loses you the argument in Thai eyes.
• The head is sacred and the feet are lowly: don''t touch anyone''s head, don''t step over people or food.
• Public displays of affection are noticed; hand-holding is fine, more is not.
• Remove shoes when entering a home and many small shops and guesthouses.

Haggling

Bargain at markets, not in shops with marked prices. Do it good-humouredly, expect perhaps ten to twenty per cent, and buy if your price is accepted. Aggressive bargaining reads as rude rather than shrewd.

Songkran and festival timing

Mid-April Songkran means three days of national water-throwing. It is joyful and unavoidable — expect to get soaked in public, protect your phone, and book transport well ahead as the whole country travels.

Safety and scams

The recurring ones are the "temple is closed today" tuk-tuk detour to a gem shop, jet-ski damage claims in Phuket and Pattaya, and unmetered taxis. Insist on the meter or use Grab, photograph any rented vehicle before taking it, and never surrender your passport as a rental deposit.